This week I had the privilege of taking a sneak peak at the brand new All Star Pizza Bar, the new pizza restaurant from the All Star Sandwich Bar guys Johnny and Kosta. The space is smaller than the Sandwich Bar, with picnic tables and a few high tops. A chalkboard menu is posted on one wall. Another wall features a mural with various pop-culture outer space figures The menu is short and sweet: seven Chef’s Specials, all creative and some unusual, the sort of thing people know and love about the Sandwich Bar.
The first pie we tasted was the standard house blend cheese and red sauce pie. Though I typically prefer a thinner crust with a little more chew, I actually enjoyed this slightly sturdier crust, especially in the center where it maintained its crispness underneath the toppings. The outer crust was a little thick for my taste. Below, a look at the Chef’s Specials. The sauce and cheese are both excellent, this is a solid option when you’re in the mood for something more traditional.
I had two favorites out of all the Chef’s Specials. The first, Ms. Piggy’s Fig, with vin cotto sauce, goat cheese, dried mission figs, prosciutto, arugula, and pistachio gremolata. This one is positively delightful, with a nice mix of creamy and chewy and sweet and salty.
My other favorite, the Romesco Ratatouille with almond Romesco sauce, roasted cauliflower, brussels sprouts, asparagus and summer squash, grated parmesan and herbs. The sauce is hearty from the almonds with a little bit of heat. It tastes wonderful paired with the sweetness of the roasted vegetables.
Egg on a pizza is nothing new, but I’m positive I’ve never seen grits on a pizza. The Dukes of Hazzard is topped with creamy hominy ricotta grits, maple breakfast sausage, soft baked eggs, and pickled fresno chilis. When first reading the description, I worried the grits would be too dense and heavy on a pizza crust, but just the opposite, they are quite light, with a nice richness from the ricotta.
Chorizo and broccoli rabe. In addition to the Chef’s Specials, you can assemble your own pie from a selection of toppings, this being one example.
The Atomic Meatloaf pizza, with All Star meatloaf and Inner Beauty hot sauce, is an homage to the popular sandwich of the same name offered across the street.
Buffalo Duck Confit with marinara sauce, duck confit tossed in All Star buffalo sauce, Maytag blue cheese, and pickled celery.
The Chile Relleno with tomatillo salsa, house blend cheese, fire-roasted poblano peppers, grilled chorizo, sweet corn, cotija cheese and cilantro, is a nice mix of strong flavors with the fire roasted peppers, cheese and herbs. This one is chef Johnny’s favorite. The Red Head with roasted red bliss potatoes, shaved steak, applewood smoked bacon, caramelized onions and horseradish cream. If you’ve ever wanted steak and potatoes in pizza form, this is it. I particularly enjoyed the chunks of creamy roasted potato.
All Star Pizza Bar
1238 Cambridge Street